Blue's Boots

Andrea's adventures on the trail...

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Zion National Park, UT – Autumn 2022

During my stay in southern Utah in November 2022, I visited Zion National Park 4 times, each time in a different location with different scenery. I’ve been there during the crowded seasons, so visiting in November was like a breath of fresh air without all the crowds and hordes of tourists.

Kolob Canyons

T. and I visited the Kolob Canyons area, which is a separate area from the main Zion canyon. It was a chilly but sunny 28 degrees F when we drove to the end of the scenic drive. It has snowed several days earlier and the trails were extremely icy, so after enjoying the views and scenery we drove down part way to the Taylor Creek trailhead, a beautiful trail that crosses Taylor Creek multiple times but was easily done by rock-hopping (icy, but fine with using hiking poles!). We didn’t go all the way to the end, but the beginning section that we hiked was gorgeous in and of itself. The canyon progressively narrows, and I want to get back there to explore further in another time.

Canyon Overlook trail

T. and I drove to the main canyon of Zion and decided to drive through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. At the time it was built, the tunnel was an engineering marvel. Normally Canyon Junction, the turn for the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, is the farthest that private vehicles are allowed to drive inside of the park.

On the eastern side of the tunnel are very limited parking areas, so we weren’t counting on being able to explore there but did manage to find one spot to park, even though it was off-season and during the week. The hike out to Canyon Overlook is short and showcases some beautiful scenery, with the final viewpoint being an expansive view toward the main Zion canyon. The fall colors, red canyon walls, and crystal-blue sky make it seem like a painting. This is a very well-worthwhile place to visit, but be prepared for parking woes, it’s very difficult to find a spot, especially during the busier seasons and on weekends.

Zion Narrows

One of the fun parts about taking the shuttle bus through Zion National Park is not having to pay attention to the road, so you can focus on the towering walls on both sides of the canyon. We took the shuttle bus to the end of the line, Temple of Sinawava, and hiked along the Virgin River trail to the end, where if you want to continue on it involves hiking in the water itself to enter the Narrows.

Being November and very cold, we decided to stay dry. Even without entering the Narrows, the hike from the parking lot to the end of the trail is well worth a visit. The main trail is paved, but we spent as much time as possible along the riverbank on the many trails that braid through the sandy shores (and are much easier on the knees and low back than pavement). The fall foliage was stunning, and as the light shone through the canyon walls the colors popped. So much beauty here!

Angel’s Landing

I was able to get a next-day permit for Angel’s Landing, which I hadn’t planned on at all, but decided to give it a try because why not??  I’ve seen Angel’s Landing many times from the canyon floor below, and have always thought the view from above must be spectacular. Permit in hand, I started up the West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout, which does not require a permit. Unfortunately the entire trail to Scout Lookout is paved, which is so hard on knees, hips, and low back. Even without going to Angel’s Landing itself, this trail is well worth the views. Just before getting to Scout Lookout, the trail follows Walter’s Wiggles, a series of 21 extremely steep, sharp switchbacks carved into the cliff.

At Scout Lookout, rangers were checking for permits and I headed out onto the cables/chains. It’s about 1500 feet straight down to the valley floor, and most definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights or vertigo. I was holding onto the chains with both hands, and concentrating on each foot placement (and not looking down). After the first section, and looking at the steeper section ahead, I decided that where I was would make a perfect lunch spot with excellent views, and I didn’t feel the need to continue on from there. I spent quite a while watching others continue on, wondering if I’d change my mind, and had a lovely lunch on a flat spot overlooking both sides of the valley floor below. Good enough for me! Heading back on the chains, I hiked a bit further up West Rim Trail for spectacular views of Angel’s Landing from above.

On the way back to the canyon floor (feeling my knees hurt with each step downhill on pavement, ugh!!!) I stopped for a snack and out of the corner of my eye I spotted a massive bird circling above. It was one of the California Condors that live in the Park. They have a 9+ foot wingspan and are a success story in their recovery from near extinction. In 1987 there were only 27 in the world, and thanks to a captive breeding program now number several hundred. It was such an honor to be able to see this majestic bird flying overhead for several minutes, a perfect ending to a perfect day.

Pa’rus Bike Trail

Normally the main Zion canyon is only accessible via shuttle bus with professional drivers, and many people bike the road through the length of the canyon. I had planned on doing that, only to get there and find out it was the first day of the (very short) season when private vehicles were allowed to drive inside. Knowing how much I myself look around the canyon walls while riding the shuttle bus, I decided to not attempt riding my bike on the road with hundreds of tourists looking up instead of paying attention to driving. The best laid plans….

So, instead I had a lovely morning biking the short, paved Pa’rus trail several times. Just being outside in such a beautiful area, soaking up the sunshine and light, and feeling the magic of the place was worth it. I found a peaceful spot along the river to have lunch, where I spent an hour sitting in the sun, watching, listening, and being in the present moment, taking in all that Mother Earth had to show me. Sometimes plans change without notice, and I’m very thankful that I spent the day the way I did.

SW Utah – late autumn 2022

Utah pulls me back over and over and over, like a strong magnet. While I adore the PNW mountains and forests, I also find so much beauty in the canyon country and desert of Utah. While each of the 5 National Parks there are like no place else on Earth, there are also some other wonderful gems outside of the Big 5 that are well worth exploring. (Links at the bottom of this post.)

In an attempt to postpone my annual winter spiral into the darkness of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), I spent 5 weeks in the St. George area of Utah in November 2022. Daylight is critical for my health and well-being, especially in winter time. I knew it would be cold, but at least in that area there is SUN and LIGHT and so many opportunities for spending time outside. It’s a gorgeous place in the late fall/early winter, and I will most definitely be spending more time there in future years. I don’t mind bundling up for the cold, as long as I can be outdoors walking (not on pavement!) and hiking and biking daily in sunshine. It’s by far the best mood-booster in the world for me.

Unlike other trips, I stayed in one place for 5 weeks, exploring out from that base like spokes in a wheel. While the weather sometimes was cold (below freezing), there were only THREE non-sunny days in a 5-week period. I am solar powered. I can deal with the cold as long as I can be outside and get light. Success!!!

Virgin River bike trail

I went to Zion National Park 4 times, Snow Canyon State Park more times than I could count (what an incredible place to bike and hike – Wow!), Valley of Fire State Park in Nevada, and many other areas in the region like Yant Flat and Hellhole Canyon.  Travel virtually with me to some fantastic scenery in the far southwest corner of Utah. Please link to the individual posts by clicking on the names above.

Living with Seasonal Affective Disorder

Living in Western Washington State means having very little daylight during wintertime, which is compounded by the winter climate of rain, gray, gloom, and dark. I call it “The Dark Season.”

I’ve struggled with Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) for 30+ years. I’m SOLAR POWERED, I need sunlight and outdoor activity to feel good, and I just don’t get that for half of my life. I wrote an article on my yoga blog about what it feels like to live with SAD for 6 months out of every 12.

I’m finally choosing to not be miserable every winter, and will be spending part of every Dark Season in a sunnier location from now on. Not just because it’s fun to be out in the sunshine, but for my physical and mental health and well-being. This year I’m spending 6 weeks in southern Utah in Nov/Dec, and have been here for 6 days thus far. The difference in how I feel between here and Washington State is incredible, and I’ve been journaling about my experience.

Since BluesBoots is about spending time in the great outdoors with Mother Nature, I think this is an appropriate place to share my winter sunshine experience.

I’m fortunate that 2 of my 3 part time jobs are online and portable. Spending 6 weeks in the St. George, Utah, area means I can still work while here, but also get daily doses of sunshine and outdoor activity. I teach and practice yoga, and am a Mindful Outdoor Guide, so I’m very in tune with what my body and mind are doing along with the seasons and outdoor conditions.

Things I’ve noticed in the past 6 days being in sunny Southern Utah instead of Washington State:

· I don’t need to have lights on in the house all day long even during daylight hours. Bright natural light v. electric light all day – big difference!

· I have so much more energy physically – outdoors daily for several hours in the form of hiking and biking.

· I feel very alert mentally, not like a hibernating animal.

· My mood is soooo good, even though I miss my family and friends at home.

· I’m waking up to natural light in the morning, not an alarm clock in the dark. My waking up experience is so much better, I’m ready for every day instead of having to drag myself out of bed.

· I’m not at all sleepy in the afternoons. At home in WA in winter I feel like someone has drugged me to the point that I literally can’t make it through a day without 1 to 2 naps. (I’ve fallen asleep with my face on my keyboard before, not pleasant)

· I’m naturally sleeping about 7.5 – 8 hours a day, not 10+. That means I have more time to do things during the day, hooray!

· I’m not freezing cold and fighting to stay warm all winter. I don’t need to wear 4 layers of clothes and a wool hat *inside* my house because I run so much colder than the rest of my family in wintertime.

· I’m NOT CRAVING SUGAR – which is a huge thing for me. In winter all I want is sugar and chocolate, to an obsessive degree, for that serotonin hit that I don’t get in wintertime. I gain weight every winter. Not craving sugar and being so much more active daily will hopefully stave off my yearly winter weight gain.

· I’m not having to force myself to exercise like I do at home. I know it’s good for me but in winter it’s like torture making my body move when all it wants to do is crawl into bed. Here in the sun I’m loving being active, it feels wonderful.

· I’m not feeling the need to snack all day long, I’m eating much less than I would be at home, but have so much more energy. It’s easier for me to eat healthy. Part of that is how I feel, and part is that I’m on my own these weeks without family in the house for now, so all of their snacky foods aren’t available to me because I’m not buying any for myself.

· It’s amazing to be able to wear normal clothes and not have to bundle and layer indoors like I do at home, where I feel like I’m freezing my arse off for 6 months of every 12, even though my thermostat here is set to almost the same temp as we have it at home.

· Even though it’s not warm here by any means, mid-50s F during the day, just the sun exposure itself is making a huge impact on how cold/not cold I feel.

Summary: For me in winter in WA, sleep and cold go hand in hand. When I’m cold (which is pretty much 50% of my life) I get painfully sleepy, and vice versa. Here with daily sun exposure I don’t feel cold indoors, I’m awake and alert throughout the day without an afternoon slump, I’m not craving sugar, my mood is exponentially better even though I miss my family, and I have more energy than I know what to do with.

I’m calling it a success. Thanks for letting me share.

Snow Canyon State Park

Letting Go…

Every year in autumn I like to take a lesson from Mother Nature as leaves are changing color and falling. What am I holding onto that I should let go of? What is no longer serving me?

I wrote THIS ARTICLE several years ago about things that can clutter up our lives and our minds. I also use some of these ideas in my yoga classes during this season. As I’m currently in training to become certified as a Kripalu Mindful Outdoor Guide, these lessons apply even more!

While you’re there, feel free to visit some of the other articles on my yoga blog as well!

What are you holding onto that you can let go of?

Saying goodbye to summer…

I had such a wonderful trip to Colorado and Utah in September (see HERE).

I feel so fortunate that I was able to get in 3 last good-weather hikes at Tahoma/Mt. Rainier before the rains and autumn weather showed up with a bang. Last year there was no transition, we went straight from summer to BAM winter weather. I’m grateful that this year I was able to say goodnight to my sweet Mountain and get to these places before the roads closed for winter.

Skyscraper Pass out of the Sunrise area is so beautiful, and I very often see mountain goats there. Even with our record snow pack from last winter, it was scary to see how low Frozen Lake was after 4+ months of virtually no rainfall.

Naches Loop trail at Chinook Pass is a must for fall colors. I’ve seen more vibrant colors in previous years, but it was still beautiful, on a glorious sunny fall day.

Finally, I hiked up to the Tolmie Lookout from the Mowich Lake area. At this point there was a lot of wildfire smoke, but I had a small window of clear air and I went for it! So glad I did. I think this is perhaps my favorite view of the Mountain.

Goodnight, my sweet Tahoma – I’ll see you again next summer!

Utah and Colorado 2022

Phew!!! Took me days to sort through, label, and upload hundreds of photos, but it’s READY!

I spent an incredible month exploring Colorado and Utah, living in my little teardrop trailer, hiking, scrambling, and soaking in all the good things and sunshine this area has to offer.

These photos are just a tiny sampling to whet your appetite for more… visit the entire trip HERE. If you ever get the chance to visit, just GO!

83 trail miles hiked
6 National Parks
4 National Monuments
2 State Parks
2 other public land areas
3900 driving miles
2 exhausted feet
1 happy Andrea

(And another trip to Utah? Yep! In November I spent 5 weeks in the St. George, UT, area for even more sunshine)

Crystal Lakes, MRNP

I can do this, right?!? I’ll just ignore the 2 screws sticking through a bone in the bottom of my foot causing major irritation (insert sarcasm here).

The hike from Highway 410 near the Sunrise Road to Crystal Lakes is up up up, and then more up ~~ about 2100 feet of elevation gain in 3 miles. The lower 3/4 of the trail is through not-very-exciting forest with only one small chance to see Mt. Rainier, but that small spot affords a beautiful view up the White River valley directly to the Mountain.

The real magic of this hike is at the end, at Upper Crystal Lake, with views of the beautiful lake basin and up to Crystal Peak. It makes the climb worth it, in my humble opinion. Wildflowers near the top were in full bloom, and so were the blood-sucking mosquitoes. They go hand in hand, the wildflowers and insects, it’s impossible to have one without the other in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest.

Though there were several other people in the upper lake basin, we were spread out with plenty of good picnic lunch spots to choose from for everyone. This is one of those places to just sit back and let the beauty of Mother Nature soak in.

I struggled a lot on the hike back down to the car because of my compromised gait due to foot surgery and the screws, but I’m still glad I had a day of beauty!

Fremont Lookout Tower, MRNP

Should I take my big camera on today’s hike? I floated this question around in my mind at 4:30am in the dark before heading to Sunrise at Mt. Rainier. I don’t enjoy carrying it, but what if I see wildlife? I’m glad I decided to bring it along, it came in very handy!

Boots on trail before 6:30 am, knowing it would be hot and crowded later in the morning. Once I got to the Frozen Lake trail junction, I decided on the Fremont Lookout tower, since glimpses north showed layered mountains toward Glacier Peak and I knew I would get beautiful photos from that vantage point. I saw a solitary mountain goat on the way, far below me, and figured that would be my single wildlife sighting for the day.

The trail from Frozen Lake to the Fremont Lookout is not for anyone with vertigo or a fear of heights. It’s a good trail, but can make a person feel wobbly during some sections.

It was extremely windy at the lookout, but that thankfully kept the insects away. I had a few minutes to myself there before other hikers also showed up, and we spent a half-hour in easy conversation before I headed back down. The layers from the lookout tower were incredible, with views of The Enchantments, Mt. Stuart, Glacier Peak, and the tip of Mt. Baker. Also a wonderful view down to Grand Park.

Heading back toward Frozen Lake, I spotted a herd of Mountain goats just above me on the trail, and we paralleled each other for at least 1/4 mile, always keeping a good distance. This is where I was so thankful to have my camera with zoom lens, glad I decided to bring it along. This time of year they’re shedding last winter’s coat and will soon grow out a new long coat for the upcoming winter. This herd had 2 youngsters that were so fun to watch!

From Frozen Lake I debated which route to take back to Sunrise, and decided on Shadow Lake where bears sometimes like to spend time. I had a nice conversation with marmot for a few minutes, while swatting mosquitoes. Coming around a bend, I got to spend about 10 minutes watching a juvenile black bear foraging, with nobody else nearby. I was far enough away to be safe, again using my zoom lens. Mosquitoes were fierce and relentless every time I would stop, but trading a few pints of blood for good bear photos was a fair exchange.

Overall, a wonderful day. The kind of day that makes getting up at 4:30 am worth it.

Comet Falls and VanTrump Park, MRNP

I’ve been itching to do longer, more challenging hikes after my foot surgery in March, and today was the day. I decided on Comet Falls and VanTrump Park, at Mount Rainier National Park. As always, I got an early start, leaving home at 5:30am to avoid crowds. I forgot how rocky, uneven, and gnarly the majority of this trail is, and while my foot is not at all pleased with me now, the rest of me sure feels good about today’s hike!!

With our heavy winter snowpack this past winter and the heat we’ve had this week, Comet Falls was raging and so beautiful, including rainbows in the mist. It is the tallest waterfall in Mount Rainier National Park, and on a hot day like today, the mist it was throwing off was the perfect way to cool down. There are several other smaller waterfalls along the way that are also worth stopping to visit.

I decided to continue on the trail up to VanTrump Park, about 1 mile past Comet Falls. The entire trail is rough and rocky, with hundreds of big steps, so I definitely got good exercise today.

There were so many different types of wildflowers blooming, it’s a much later wildflower season than normal because of our past winter. I had to stop and enjoy the beauty of all of them. They bring so much joy, if only one stops to appreciate them.

Diablo Lake, North Cascades National Park, WA

North Cascades National Park is rugged, raw, and gorgeous. There are very few roads that access the park, and the Highway 20 corridor is one of the only ways through.

We stayed at Colonial Creek Campground because there’s a boat ramp into Diablo Lake for easy kayak access, which is what we came for. The color of the water on Diablo is truly that amazing turquoise blue, no photo filters needed! Weather was perfect, and I only came home with 4 mosquito bites, which is a record for me – I usually contribute much more blood to the feeding-fest than that on summer trips.

Thunder Creek Trail: Our first evening we hiked about 4 miles on the Thunder Creek Trail, which starts within the campground. It’s through a beautiful old-growth forest. I’m not sure about the title “creek” since it was a full-on river, definitely not a creek. The bridge where we turned around is a work of art. What a perfect way to take an evening stroll, with Mother Nature, massive trees and the sound of running water.

Thunder Arm/Diablo Lake Kayak #1: On our first morning we kayaked up Thunder Arm toward where Thunder Creek empties into Diablo Lake. We had this section of the lake to ourselves, and spent time exploring a gravel bar and going upstream as much as possible, until the current turned us back toward the lake. It was a perfect, lazy paddle.

Thunder Knob Trail: The second evening we crossed Highway 20 to the other section of Colonial Creek Campground to hike up to Thunder Knob. Part of this campground was wiped out by rains in 2003 when Colonial Creek changed course. It’s a stark reminder of what the power of water can do.

The trail is beautiful and climbs via well-made switchbacks up to the point of Thunder Knob, with views down to Diablo Lake and north into the Park. We had the top to ourselves.

Thunder Arm/Diablo Lake Kayak #2: The next morning we kayaked in the other direction toward the main body of Diablo Lake, toward Thunder Point campground that is accessible only by boat/kayak. There is a beautiful dock and stunning views from the campground, this might have to happen sometime in my future! By the time we got there wind was picking up, which makes kayaking not nearly as much fun, so after snacks we headed back to Colonial Creek. Three miles paddling meant rest that afternoon in the hammock with a good book.

Diablo Lake Overlook: On our final evening we drove a bit further on Highway 20 to the Diablo Lake Overlook. It’s hard to describe what it feels like looking down on this place. The water truly is that color, combined with the colors of the sky and the forest makes for a beautiful setting.

View from Diablo Overlook

I must do much more exploring at North Cascades National Park in the coming years. It’s truly a beautiful place.

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