During my stay in southern Utah in November 2022, I visited Zion National Park 4 times, each time in a different location with different scenery. I’ve been there during the crowded seasons, so visiting in November was like a breath of fresh air without all the crowds and hordes of tourists.

Kolob Canyons

T. and I visited the Kolob Canyons area, which is a separate area from the main Zion canyon. It was a chilly but sunny 28 degrees F when we drove to the end of the scenic drive. It has snowed several days earlier and the trails were extremely icy, so after enjoying the views and scenery we drove down part way to the Taylor Creek trailhead, a beautiful trail that crosses Taylor Creek multiple times but was easily done by rock-hopping (icy, but fine with using hiking poles!). We didn’t go all the way to the end, but the beginning section that we hiked was gorgeous in and of itself. The canyon progressively narrows, and I want to get back there to explore further in another time.

Canyon Overlook trail

T. and I drove to the main canyon of Zion and decided to drive through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. At the time it was built, the tunnel was an engineering marvel. Normally Canyon Junction, the turn for the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, is the farthest that private vehicles are allowed to drive inside of the park.

On the eastern side of the tunnel are very limited parking areas, so we weren’t counting on being able to explore there but did manage to find one spot to park, even though it was off-season and during the week. The hike out to Canyon Overlook is short and showcases some beautiful scenery, with the final viewpoint being an expansive view toward the main Zion canyon. The fall colors, red canyon walls, and crystal-blue sky make it seem like a painting. This is a very well-worthwhile place to visit, but be prepared for parking woes, it’s very difficult to find a spot, especially during the busier seasons and on weekends.

Zion Narrows

One of the fun parts about taking the shuttle bus through Zion National Park is not having to pay attention to the road, so you can focus on the towering walls on both sides of the canyon. We took the shuttle bus to the end of the line, Temple of Sinawava, and hiked along the Virgin River trail to the end, where if you want to continue on it involves hiking in the water itself to enter the Narrows.

Being November and very cold, we decided to stay dry. Even without entering the Narrows, the hike from the parking lot to the end of the trail is well worth a visit. The main trail is paved, but we spent as much time as possible along the riverbank on the many trails that braid through the sandy shores (and are much easier on the knees and low back than pavement). The fall foliage was stunning, and as the light shone through the canyon walls the colors popped. So much beauty here!

Angel’s Landing

I was able to get a next-day permit for Angel’s Landing, which I hadn’t planned on at all, but decided to give it a try because why not??  I’ve seen Angel’s Landing many times from the canyon floor below, and have always thought the view from above must be spectacular. Permit in hand, I started up the West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout, which does not require a permit. Unfortunately the entire trail to Scout Lookout is paved, which is so hard on knees, hips, and low back. Even without going to Angel’s Landing itself, this trail is well worth the views. Just before getting to Scout Lookout, the trail follows Walter’s Wiggles, a series of 21 extremely steep, sharp switchbacks carved into the cliff.

At Scout Lookout, rangers were checking for permits and I headed out onto the cables/chains. It’s about 1500 feet straight down to the valley floor, and most definitely not for anyone with a fear of heights or vertigo. I was holding onto the chains with both hands, and concentrating on each foot placement (and not looking down). After the first section, and looking at the steeper section ahead, I decided that where I was would make a perfect lunch spot with excellent views, and I didn’t feel the need to continue on from there. I spent quite a while watching others continue on, wondering if I’d change my mind, and had a lovely lunch on a flat spot overlooking both sides of the valley floor below. Good enough for me! Heading back on the chains, I hiked a bit further up West Rim Trail for spectacular views of Angel’s Landing from above.

On the way back to the canyon floor (feeling my knees hurt with each step downhill on pavement, ugh!!!) I stopped for a snack and out of the corner of my eye I spotted a massive bird circling above. It was one of the California Condors that live in the Park. They have a 9+ foot wingspan and are a success story in their recovery from near extinction. In 1987 there were only 27 in the world, and thanks to a captive breeding program now number several hundred. It was such an honor to be able to see this majestic bird flying overhead for several minutes, a perfect ending to a perfect day.

Pa’rus Bike Trail

Normally the main Zion canyon is only accessible via shuttle bus with professional drivers, and many people bike the road through the length of the canyon. I had planned on doing that, only to get there and find out it was the first day of the (very short) season when private vehicles were allowed to drive inside. Knowing how much I myself look around the canyon walls while riding the shuttle bus, I decided to not attempt riding my bike on the road with hundreds of tourists looking up instead of paying attention to driving. The best laid plans….

So, instead I had a lovely morning biking the short, paved Pa’rus trail several times. Just being outside in such a beautiful area, soaking up the sunshine and light, and feeling the magic of the place was worth it. I found a peaceful spot along the river to have lunch, where I spent an hour sitting in the sun, watching, listening, and being in the present moment, taking in all that Mother Earth had to show me. Sometimes plans change without notice, and I’m very thankful that I spent the day the way I did.